Gold Leaf Gluework (Prada or Telepok)

(Glossary Term)

Gold leaf is added to different types of fabric to create a luxury object for ceremonial occasions. The technique is widely known in Indonesia as prada (or pinarada), and sometimes as telepok. In this royal textile it is applied to a hand-drawn cotton batik. In other instances it embellishes plain fabric, tie-dyed and stitch-dyed silks, Indian trade textiles and even ikat cloth. The gold is attached to the smooth surface of the cloth with a liquid adhesive, often a fish-glue. The glue patterns are first hand-drawn or stamped onto the cloth with wooden blocks, and then the fine gold leaf or gold dust is applied, adhering only to the gluework design. Unlike most Indonesian textile techniques, gold-leaf prada was the work of men.