Double Ikat

(Glossary Term)

The most difficult ikat technique, both the warp and weft threads are pre-dyed. The technique has traditionally only been practised in Gujarat in west India, where the silk patola is created, and in Tenganan in east Bali, where the famous cotton geringsing is woven. During the weaving process the weaver takes great care to align the motifs as the final design takes form. The loom is set up so that both the warp and the weft are visible on the final woven cloth. The cloth is reversible with the designs appearing equally clearly on both sides of the cloth. While the sombre Balinese double ikat geringsing are always woven from hand-spun cotton, the brightly coloured double ikat patola (singular, patolu) from Gujarat are always made of silk. In this case the usual sari size has been modified to suit Indonesian use and the open weave is typical of some export patola.