Glossary

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  • SongketTextiles normally of silk , decorated with supplementary wefts that include gold and silver metallic yarns. Mainly associated with aristocratic traditions of Hindu Bali and Islamic Sumatra.
  • Spice Trade, Spice RoutesTrade in spices, particularly pepper and nutmeg, pre-dating the colonial period and eventually linking Indonesia with the West during the colonial era.
  • SpindleA stick used for spinning thread, sometimes weighted with a whorl made of wood, bone, stone or clay. In southeast Asia, the fluffed cotton fiber is drawn out with the fingers, then twisted into yarn with the aid of the spindle, which may be spun suspended in the air (drop spindle) or in a bowl on ground. The spun yarn accumulates around the base of the spindle. The spinning wheel, which is also found in the region, is more efficient for preparing yarn. But the spindle whorl persists in eastern parts of Indonesia because of its simplicity and portability.
  • Spinning/ Spun ThreadThe process by which a fluffy fiber such as cotton or wool is simultaneously spun and drawn out into a long thread.
  • SpoolSee shuttle.
  • Stitched ResistSee resist dyeing.
  • Suku (Indonesia)An ethnic group or familial group.
  • SungkitWeft wrapping technique (Borneo). See supplementary weft.
  • Supplementary Warp


    Extra warp, in addition to ground warp, which is used for patterning. Supplementary warp usually has a contrasting color to that of the ground weft. Supplementary warps can be raised to float over several wefts to create a warp-float patterning, such as in Sumba ceremonial skirt for women, Lao Pahudu. They can also be raised to make piles, as in velvet weaving. Because the weaving take-up of the supplementary warps may differ from the ground warps, a separate warp beam or individual spools for each supplementary warp end may be required. The latter is especially true for velvet.

  • Supplementary WeftExtra weft, in addition to ground weft, which is used for patterning. Supplementary weft usually has contrasting color to that of the ground weft. They can float over or wrapped around several warps to create patterns. Supplementary wefts can be continuous or discontinuous. Weavers may add supplementary wefts to a limited part of the fabric (discontinuous supplementary weft or inlaid supplementary weft) or they may use wefts that extend from selvedge to selvedge (continuous supplementary weft). Wefts may interlace with the warp the same way as the ground weft, or they may wrap around the warp (weft wrapping), for example in sungkit cloths made in Borneo.
  • Sword/ Sword-BeaterA sword-like implement, carved from hardwood and used during weaving for beating-in the weft. See beater.
  • Tablet WeavingA process for making narrow bands with warp patterning. Warp threads are passed through holes in the corners of hard tablets or cards made of bone or wood. These tablets are rotated back and forth around their centers to create different shed openings for the weft threads.
  • Tampan (Lampung)A square or rectangular ceremonial cloth used in ritualized gift exchange.
  • TapestryWeft-faced patterned cloth based on plain weave or twill, in which the ground wefts are discontinuous, usually in different colors, and woven back and forth within their own color sections for the pattern. There are several types, defined by the ways the boundaries between adjacent color sections are connected slit tapestry (also see kesi and kilim); dovetailed tapestry, and interlocked or double-interlocked tapestry.
  • TempleA device in weaving, usually a stick with points at both ends, which is inserted into the woven cloth near its leading edge, providing tension across the warps and controlling the width of the finished textile.
  • TenterSee temple.
  • TextileCloth that is produced by interlacing yarns in various ways. The definition used in this book includes textiles that are woven on a loom, and those that are made in other ways, such as knitting.
  • ThreadSee yarn.
  • Thread CountThe number of warps or wefts per unit length (generally one inch or one centimeter).
  • ThrowOne insertion of weft through a shed opening, either using shuttle or bobbin.