Glossary

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  • Patola(singular: patolu) luxurious silk trade cloths made mainly in Gujarat in India, using the double-ikat technique. Patola were originally made for the local Indian market, but became important export items to Indonesia, where they were prized as heirloom items. Printed cotton imitations of silk patola were also significant exports that are also found among Indonesian heirloom objects. The designs of patola were widely imitated and re-interpreted on Indonesian weavings.
  • Pattern CordA cord that records a warp lift in a complex pattern heddle, such as that found in a drawloom. This term is also used by some authors as a synonym for leash, when referring to drawlooms and jacquard looms.
  • Pattern/ Patterning HeddleA heddle that raises groups of warps for patterning purposes, for example for inserting supplementary wefts.
  • Pattern ShedAn opening in a warp created for the purpose of inserting patterning weft(s).
  • Patterning TowerA characteristic feature of a Chinese drawloom; a framework built above the warp that supports the patterning system and the drawperson who operates it.
  • PedalA treadle worked by the weaver, usually used to lift a heddle. The ensemble of treadle plus heddle is called a shaft.
  • Pick-Up StickA pointed stick used by a weaver for selecting individual warps, prior to inserting a pattern weft.
  • PigmentA coloring material consisting of insoluble particles, for example mineral colors. Compare dye.
  • Pilih(Borneo) continuous supplementary-weft technique.
  • PlaitingPlaitwork. See braiding.
  • Plate HeddleA plate with holes and slots in, through which warps are passed. When the plate is raised or lowered the warps in the holes are also raised and lowered, while the warps in the slots remain in position. By this means sheds are opened in the warp for insertion of wefts. This type of heddle is usually used for weaving narrow bands of cloth.
  • Plied YarnYarn consisting of several strands, normally, but not always, twisted together.
  • PokerworkPatterning on the surface of matting, made by singeing it with the tip of a hot poker.
  • Pori LonjongA long ceremonial cloth from Sulawesi, typically used to encircle a sacred space.
  • Pori RotoLong, tie-dyed cloths from the Rongkong valley of Sulawesi, used as ceremonial banners, similar to cloths called plangi in other parts of Indonesia.
  • Pori SitutuWarp-ikat cloths often featuring the large-scale interlocking hooked arm motif, used in funerary ceremonies or for trade to outside communities, from the Rongkong valley region of Sulawesi.
  • Pori Tonoling, Papori Tonoling, PaporitonolingA warp-ikat cloth (papori, to tie), attributed to a long-abandoned village of Tonoling in the Karama river valley.
  • Pua KumbuA large ceremonial cloth from Borneo, decorated with warp ikat.
  • Pua SungkitA large ceremonial cloth from Borneo, decorated with weft wrapping (sungkit).
  • Punch-CardA card with holes in, used for controlling a loom (such as a Jacquard loom). Each hole corresponds to one warp lift if a hole is present, the warp is raised and the weft passes underneath it during weaving.