Glossary

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  • Ground WeaveThe warps and wefts that make up the basic structure of a textile, considered in isolation from any patterning elements that may be present. The ground weave may be a plain weave, twill, or a satin structure. Synonym: foundation weave.
  • Ground Weave HeddleA heddle that raises or lowers the warps needed to make the ground weave of a textile.
  • HarnessA leash, or a set of leashes attached to warps on a pattern loom.
  • HeddleA set of string loops (leashes) attached to warps, used for opening a shed for the insertion of weft. A simple heddle consists of a stick with loops of thread that can open one type of shed. Complex pattern heddles used on drawlooms can encode many shed openings.
  • Heddle String/ LoopA single loop of a heddle, attached to a warp and used for lifting it up for weft insertion.
  • Hemp(Cannabis sativa) marijuana plant from which hemp fiber can be extracted for making textiles.
  • Indian Trade ClothCloth made in India for trade and sale to other lands. The largest category consists of cotton cloths with stamped and resist-dyed motifs.
  • Inlaid Supplementary WeftSee supplementary weft.
  • Interlocked/ Interlocking TapestryA type of tapestry in which the wefts of adjacent color sections loop around each other when they go back and forth.
  • Interlocking Tapestry WeaveSee tapestry
  • Jilamprang (Java)An eight-petalled motif adapted from Indian patola designs, known as chabadi bhat (flowering basket) in India.
  • Jin Or Jin BrocadeChinese term for ancient polychrome textiles, usually in warp-faced compound plain weave.
  • Kain (Indonesia)Cloth.
  • Kelim (Kilim)A flatwoven (pile-less) floor covering. The technique of kelim is slit tapestry.
  • KepalaHead, referring to a part of the body or a local leader.
  • Keris, Kris(Indonesia) a ceremonial dagger, owned and worn by a man, part of his ceremonial attire.
  • Kudzu Or Ko-Hemp(Pueraria sp) type of bast fiber made from the wild kudzu vine.
  • LamellaA narrow strip of cellulosic or proteinaceous material, serving as a substrate for gold or silver leaf; see also metallic yarns.
  • LampasA compound weave structure employing two sets of warps and wefts. One set forms the interlacing for the ground weave, the other for the pattern. Lampas textiles display contrasting surfaces, most often with the ground weave being warp-faced and the weave for the pattern weft-faced.
  • Lampit (Lampung)A fine rattan mat often featuring solar, lunar, bird, boat and tree motifs burned in with a hot poker (see pokerwork), often paired with a tampan during ceremonial occasions.