Glossary

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  • Ground Weave
    The warps and wefts that make up the basic structure of a textile, considered in isolation from any patterning elements that may be present. The ground weave may be a plain weave, twill, or a satin structure. Synonym: foundation weave.
  • Ground Weave Heddle
    A heddle that raises or lowers the warps needed to make the ground weave of a textile.
  • Harness
    A leash, or a set of leashes attached to warps on a pattern loom.
  • Heddle
    A set of string loops (leashes) attached to warps, used for opening a shed for the insertion of weft. A simple heddle consists of a stick with loops of thread that can open one type of shed. Complex pattern heddles used on drawlooms can encode many shed openings.
  • Heddle String/ Loop
    A single loop of a heddle, attached to a warp and used for lifting it up for weft insertion.
  • Hemp
    (Cannabis sativa) marijuana plant from which hemp fiber can be extracted for making textiles.
  • Indian Trade Cloth
    Cloth made in India for trade and sale to other lands. The largest category consists of cotton cloths with stamped and resist-dyed motifs.
  • Inlaid Supplementary Weft
    See supplementary weft.
  • Interlocked/ Interlocking Tapestry
    A type of tapestry in which the wefts of adjacent color sections loop around each other when they go back and forth.
  • Interlocking Tapestry Weave
    See tapestry
  • Jilamprang (Java)
    An eight-petalled motif adapted from Indian patola designs, known as chabadi bhat (flowering basket) in India.
  • Jin Or Jin Brocade
    Chinese term for ancient polychrome textiles, usually in warp-faced compound plain weave.
  • Kain (Indonesia)
    Cloth.
  • Kelim (Kilim)
    A flatwoven (pile-less) floor covering. The technique of kelim is slit tapestry.
  • Kepala
    Head, referring to a part of the body or a local leader.
  • Keris, Kris
    (Indonesia) a ceremonial dagger, owned and worn by a man, part of his ceremonial attire.
  • Kudzu Or Ko-Hemp
    (Pueraria sp) type of bast fiber made from the wild kudzu vine.
  • Lamella
    A narrow strip of cellulosic or proteinaceous material, serving as a substrate for gold or silver leaf; see also metallic yarns.
  • Lampas
    A compound weave structure employing two sets of warps and wefts. One set forms the interlacing for the ground weave, the other for the pattern. Lampas textiles display contrasting surfaces, most often with the ground weave being warp-faced and the weave for the pattern weft-faced.
  • Lampit (Lampung)
    A fine rattan mat often featuring solar, lunar, bird, boat and tree motifs burned in with a hot poker (see pokerwork), often paired with a tampan during ceremonial occasions.