Glossary

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  • Dodot

    (Java) A man’s and woman’s ceremonial hip wrapper, typically a large cloth made from two separately woven pieces joined together along their long edges.

  • Double Cloth
    A compound weave employing two sets of warps and wefts, each set interlaces to form its own weave and create a distinct layer, thus the name double cloth. Normally the two weaves are of the same type, for example, plain weave and plain weave.
  • Double-Heddle Loom
    A loom that has a pair of heddles for opening the sheds for making the ground weave. Other heddles, such as pattern heddles, may be present in addition. Compare with single-heddle loom.
  • Double Ikat
    See ikat.
  • Dovetailed Tapestry
    A type of tapestry in which wefts in adjacent color sections share a common terminal warp.
  • Draw-Cord Or Draw-String
    A leash in a complex pattern heddle.
  • Drawloom
    A loom with a complex pattern heddle that records warp lifts for weft insertion, and allows warp threads to be raised in any combination. In addition to the weaver, there is normally a second person (drawperson) who manipulates the pattern heddle.
  • Drop Spindle
    See spindle.
  • Dye Or Dyestuff
    A soluble coloring material that penetrates and binds to fibers (as opposed to a pigment).
  • Embroidery
    Embellishment of finished fabric by sewing threads with various stitches, beads, shells, mica etc.
  • Fiber
    The base material from which thread (yarn) is twisted, knotted, or spun.
  • Figure Tower
    See drawloom.
  • Flat Warp
    A warp that is not a circular warp.
  • Flat Weave
    See carpet.
  • Flax
    See bast and linen.
  • Floss Silk
    Untwisted silk with a glossy and attractive appearance, generally used for supplementary weft decoration or embroidery.
  • Foundation Weave
    See ground weave.
  • Four-Selvedged Weaving
    A type of South American weaving in which both the weft and warp edges loop around and form continuous, uncut selvedges, as opposed to two-selvedged cloths (with selvedges on the weft borders only) produced by most weavers.
  • Frame Loom
    A loom with a rigid frame around it.
  • Gauze
    Any sheer textile with an open structure is often called gauze, but in the sense used in this book, gauze refers to a specific type of weave that involves the crossing and intercrossing of the warps. Typically, gauze is derived from plain weave. The warp crossings create small openings in the ground weave, and patterns can be made by juxtaposing the ground weave and the gauze areas